Travelogue: Hawaii (April 20-28, 2013)

Aloha! The island paradise of Hawaii has always been on my bucket list, which is why I had been nagging Ricky for “centuries” to take me to Maui. Besides, after a couple of trips to Europe, I needed an island fix.

Unfortunately, my pleas fell on deaf ears as every time I would bring up the idea of doing Hawaii, he would immediately shut it down due to visions of cheesy luaus and cluttered beaches, not to mention the fact that it seems to shout “glorified Philippines”.

I must confess that I myself am guilty of thinking that Hawaii is more of a place for “tourists” rather than “travelers” considering the fact that a lot of people we know who are not really travelers have been to the islands. In fact, it’s kind of surprising to know how many folks have been there on their holidays but then don’t really travel anywhere else. Conversely, friends are surprised to learn that I’ve never been to Hawaii as they consider me to be well traveled. Go figure…..


Anyhow, when I learned that Violy and Rory (my niece and her hubby) were available to accommodate me at their place and take me around Honolulu on their spare time, I grabbed at the chance of spending my birthday in paradise. And so, armed with enthusiasm and excitement, I immediately booked my flights, flying out of Bellingham airport (Washington State) so I can avail of direct flights to/from Honolulu.

As a backgrounder, Hawaii is the 50th state of the United States of America. It is an archipelago of over a hundred distinct volcanic islands located over a geological “hot spot” in the northern Pacific Ocean and marks the northeast corner of Polynesia. While it was once a major hub for the whaling, sugar and pineapple industries, it is now economically dependent on tourism and the U.S. military.



The natural beauty of the islands continues to be one of Hawaii’s greatest assets. You will find that each island has its own distinct personality and offers its own adventures, activities and sights. Mark Twain once called Hawaii, “That peaceful land, that beautiful land…… the climate, one long delicious summer day, and the good that die experience no change, for they but fall asleep in one heaven and wake up in another.”

I couldn’t agree more.

There are 8 major islands, 6 of which are open to tourism, namely:

(1) Hawaii (almost always called the Big Island to avoid confusion) is the largest of the islands and home to Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa (the largest and one of the most active volcanoes on earth), Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, coffee and macadamia nut plantations, working ranches, and green sand beaches.

(2) Oahu (nicknamed the “Gathering Place”) is the most populous and developed island. Its southern shore is home to the city of Honolulu, the state capital and largest city, and the governmental and commercial center of the state. It is home to Waikiki Beach, arguably the best known tourist destination in Hawaii; the North Shore, home to some of the largest waves in the world; and the USS Arizona National Memorial at Pearl Harbor.

(3) Maui (nicknamed the “Valley Isle”) is the second largest island in the chain and is home to the tall volcanic mountain crater of Haleakala. The west side of the island is home to the resort areas of Lahaina, Kaanapali and Kapalua; the south side is home to Kihei and Wailea; while the east side is home to the tiny village of Hana that can be reached by one of the most winding and beautiful roads in the world.

(4) Kauai (nicknamed the “Garden Isle”) is home to several natural wonders, such as the Wailua River, Waimea Canyon, and the Na Pali Coast.

(5) Molokai (nicknamed the “Friendly Isle”) is one of the least developed islands in the chain and is home to Kalaupapa, the leper colony that was the home of Father Damien.

(6) Lanai was at one time completely owned by Dole Foods and was the largest pineapple plantation in the world, but is now home to several exclusive resorts.

(7) Niihau is a privately owned island with an entirely native Hawaiian population. Until very recently, the island was off limits to all but family members and invited guests of the owners. Tourism to the island is limited to helicopter, ATV and hunting excursions originating from Kauai.

(8) Kahoolawe, which was once a former US Navy bombing range, remains uninhabited. Efforts are being made to rehabilitate the island.

Hawaii is like no other place on earth. It is home to one of the world's most active volcanoes and the birthplace of modern surfing and the hula. Former seat of a royal kingdom and home to the only royal palace on U.S. soil, Hawaii is one of the youngest geological formations in the world and the youngest state of the union.

But perhaps Hawaii's most unique feature is its aloha spirit: the warmth of Hawaiian people that wonderfully complements the Islands' perfect temperatures. As tourist bureaus and Hollywood constantly remind us, Hawaii is ‘paradise on earth’. It is hiking sculpted cliffs or diving coral-reef cities in the morning, slurping juicy papayas with hibiscus flowers in your hair in the afternoon, and drinking mai tais to slack-key guitar at sunset.

And so, it was with this mindset that I woke up very early in the morning of Saturday, April 20th, and cleaned out the entire house until it sparkled and left it spic and span for my boys as I prepared to embark on my journey to paradise. This trip was entirely for me, myself and mine. Sounds egotistic, but I guess I can be forgiven for being so as this trip is a birthday gift for myself!!!

Anyhow, my flight was not till 4:00pm, but since I will be crossing the Canada-US border where one could sometimes end up waiting in line for a couple of hours, I have enlisted the help of Ralph to drive me to Bellingham airport (Washington State), with us leaving the house at 11:30am.

As luck would have it, we only waited for less than an hour at the border which left Ralph with ample time to treat me to my favorite mushroom burger at Bob's Burger in Birch Bay enroute to the airport.



After a yummy lunch and with a happy tummy, Ralph dropped me off at Bellingham airport. It’s such a small domestic airport (which consists of only 3 gates) that checking in and passing through security was just a breeze and I was at the gate by 2:25pm.

This being my first visit to Hawaii, and with the adrenaline of excitement running through my bones, I killed my waiting time by reading almost anything and everything about “paradise”. I had to discover for myself why the 6 Islands of Aloha are home to treasures unlike any other on earth: the dramatic cliffs of the Na Pali Coast in Kauai; the vibrant shores of Waikiki Beach in Oahu; the miles of white sands of Papohaku Beach in Molokai; the dolphin friendly waters of Hulopoe Bay in Lanai; the summit of Haleakala in Maui; and the primal energy of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park in the big island of Hawaii.

Of course I already knew that, firstly, Hawaii is a haven of tropical beauty presenting some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world; secondly, that the islands teem with picture-perfect beaches, colorful sunsets, a myriad of cascading waterfalls and greener-than-green rainforests brimming with exotic plants and fascinating wildlife; and lastly, that the coral reefs reveal a hidden realm awash with fascinating sea creatures, schools of colorful, lively fish and the ever-loved curious green sea turtles.

Yet, I came to learn that the islands have every type of beach imaginable: white, black, green and red sand beaches; romantic bays and beach parks for the family; popular shorelines for people watching; and off-the-beaten-path sands still untouched by development.

So, when my flight was called, I simply couldn’t wait to leave the rainy and dreary skies of Washington State which, by the way, has the same weather as Vancouver. The plane left on time and it was a 6-hour flight to Honolulu. Since it was an older plane by Alaska Airlines with no in-flight entertainment system to boot, I made use of the flying time by reading about my particular destination - the island of Oahu.

Oahu is the third largest island (after the Big Island and Maui) and the cultural, financial, most populous and top tourist destination of the Hawaiian islands. It is home to 85% of Hawaii’s diverse population, a fusion of east and west cultures rooted in the values and traditions of the Native Hawaiian people. It’s this fundamental contrast between the ancient and the modern that makes discovering Oahu so enjoyable. It is, after all, truly at the heart of Hawaii.

Unfortunately, my reading (and musings) had been interrupted by the kid seated behind me who found it amusing to constantly kick the back of my seat until she finally got tired and dozed off. But I kept my cool and never complained as I didn’t want to start my idyllic holiday on a sour note. Fortunately, the lady beside me was so nice and has kept up a conversation with me throughout the rest of the flight. In a span of 5 minutes, I came to know all about her – that she also lives in Vancouver, works for an insurance agency, owns a condo in Waikiki and goes to Hawaii a couple of times every year (how lucky!). She then suggested names of fascinating places to go to and restaurants that serve authentic local cuisine in Honolulu. In the meantime, I ordered (bought) from an in-flight menu a plate of teriyaki chicken and rice to fill me up. The food was not that great but I had to assuage my grumbling tummy.

The plane touched down on time at Honolulu International Airport at 7:00pm (local island time) and the first thing I did was to switch my timepiece back by 3 hours (from Pacific Time). As soon as I stepped off the aircraft, the airport sets the ambience and the mood for a vacation. And the first thing I noticed was the warm and balmy air, a far cry from the cold and dreary Vancouver weather.

Oh yeah, I just landed in paradise!



After retrieving my luggage, Rory magically appeared out of nowhere and we took a cab back to their place. Violy was feeling under the weather so she had to stay home. Along the way, my conversation with Rory was frequently interrupted by the cab driver who asked him the easy route to his place. What? If he doesn't know the island with his eyes closed, he shouldn't have been a cab driver in the first place. Agh! So, I left Rory to concentrate on the road while I sat back and enjoyed the view of Honolulu at night and dreamed of what it has to offer. Excitement was building up and I couldn't wait to get started!



As you all know, Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, is the capital and largest city of the state of Hawaii. It is the center of government, transportation, and commerce; and home to a population of nearly one million people in the metro area and Hawaii's best known tourist destination, Waikiki Beach.

The name Honolulu means "sheltered bay" or "peace of shelter" in Hawaiian, and its natural harbor catapulted this humble village to importance when, in 1809, shortly after King Kamehameha conquered Oahu in order to unite the Hawaiian Islands under the Kingdom of Hawaii, he moved his royal court from the island of Hawaii to Oahu. Eventually, in 1845, Kamehameha III officially moved the kingdom's capital from Lahaina in Maui to Honolulu.

Although this is definitely not the place to go for a "get-away-from-it-all" Hawaiian holiday as it is as fast-paced and dynamic as any city, with all its problems such as heavy traffic, drugs, crime and homelessness, Honolulu still has the charm of the Islands' laidback atmosphere and culture.

Be warned, however, that traffic in Honolulu is a persistent problem, and ranks among the worst in the nation. With almost one million people living in a relatively small space, and only a few main routes serving the major populated areas on the island, a single traffic incident has the potential to induce gridlock across the entire island.

Anyhow, upon arrival at their place and after settling in, Violy and Rory treated me out for dinner at a nearby Vietnamese restaurant where I ordered chicken pho. Since I was too excited, I barely touched my food and spent most of my time talking instead of eating. After all, Violy and I had not seen each other since I left the Philippines 20 years ago. As expected, we chatted until midnight making up for lost time. And after remembering that Violy was still unwell, I called it a night and drifted off to lala-land.

To Be Continued...........