Allow me therefore to delve more deeply into this British territory.
Overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar at the entrance to the Mediterranean, the Rock of Gibraltar has long been a beacon for travelers returning to Europe. And for the last 300 years, it has also been a bone of contention between Spain and Britain.
In the 8th century, it was the landing point for the Moorish armies who went on to conquer most of the Iberian Peninsula but it was uninhabited until the 1150s when Sultan Abd al-Mu’min ordered the construction of a castle, parts of which still remain. Reconquered by the Christian Duke Medina Sidonia in 1462, it was initially granted as sovereignty to the Sephardic Jews fleeing Cordoba. In 1476, however, this was revoked and the Jews were handed over to the Spanish Inquisition.
Gibraltar remained under Spanish control until 1704 when Admiral George Rooke captured the town. Terrified by the British sailors’ reputation for looting, most of the Spanish population fled to the mainland. Spain ceded the territory to the British in the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht. But due to its strategic importance, the Spanish authorities have been trying to regain it ever since, whether by military or diplomatic means but, as a succession of referenda have shown, the population of the Rock is adamant in its determination to stay British.
Although tiny – just 2.642 sq miles in size – Gibraltar offers a lot to tourists seeking a relaxing holiday. The climate is gentle, with temperatures ranging from an average low of 11°C to highs of 27°C. Many visitors arrive by cruise ship to see the looming Rock.
Most of the upper area is covered by a nature reserve, home to Barbary Macaques, the only wild monkeys found in Europe. Local superstition states that if the monkeys ever leave, so will the British. From the top you can see over to the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. South along Queen’s Road, St Michael’s Cave is an immense natural cavern; the lower part is a series of chambers going ever deeper into the rock ending in a beautiful underground lake. The Tower of Homage is the largest surviving part of the old Moorish Castle; nearby, the Upper Galleries were blasted out of the rock to point guns down at the Spanish during the Great Siege of 1779-82. Back in the lovely old town, the Gibraltar museum is home to two well-preserved Moorish Baths.
The Rock is not just for culture vultures however. As a tax-free zone, this is a popular shopping destination and the golf course is world-famous. There is also a choice of casinos if you’re feeling lucky. Sun lovers do less well – the only really nice beach is at Catalan Bay, which has lots of character and a different vibe to the town. As befits a place so caught between cultures, both the cuisine and the nightlife owe something to Spanish and British influences. Fish and chips are as common as tapas and the only really national food is Calentita, a baked bread-like dish made with chickpea flour, water, olive oil, salt and pepper.
The Rock of Gibraltar is the most famous rock in the world. In ancient times, Gibraltar was one of the Pillars of Hercules that marked the end of the known world; with the other pillar being a mountain across the Strait of Morocco. Mythically, Hercules straddled the strait, one foot on each continent.
When you first see the Rock of Gibraltar, you cannot fail to be impressed by the visual impact of its stature, towering isolated above the surrounding countryside. Intrinsically linked with the sea, Gibraltar is one of the busiest ports of call in the Mediterranean. At ground level, Gibraltar consists of a narrow peninsula linked to the North to the Iberian Peninsula by a narrow sandy isthmus. The Airport is built on this flat area.
Speaking of which, the airport is considered one of the scariest airports in the world. Below is a quote that I read on Smart Travel:
“As if having the Mediterranean Sea to the east and the Strait of Gibraltar to the west of the airport weren't enough to complicate a landing, the main road to Spain also intersects the runway. You may be thankful if your plane gets diverted to a nearby airport due to weather, though you'll still have to brave the runway when you walk over it to get from Spain to the British overseas territory. Because of this, traffic must be stopped when planes are using the airport, and pilots must take care when landing to quickly engage the brakes, as the 6,000-foot runway doesn't leave much room for error.”
Anyhow, the drive from Costa del Sol to the Rock of Gibraltar took about 2 hours. We stopped at La Linea, got off our coach, crossed the border and walked through passport control. As soon as you cross the border, everything changes to being “British”. We rode the double decker bus, which you typically see in London, that took us to the main gate.
The place is so compact that, to reach town, we have to drive across the airport runway making sure, however, that no planes were touching down at the same time.
We alighted at Water Gate, which is the entrance to the town centre, after which we were then given some time to wander around Main Street where shops and restaurants are located. I just grabbed a bite to eat (from Burger King, haha) so I had more time to explore Main St which has all the shops.
At the appointed time and place, we climbed aboard our mini buses that took the sloping road up the Rock. Our first stop was at Europa Point, Gibraltar's southern tip, to visit the lighthouse.
The background on the photo below is Morocco. I can only sigh, with the thought that I could have been there the day before.
From Europa Point, and from viewing points on the mountain, we can see the Bay of Algeciras which is a beautiful sight to behold.
And to the west of Algeciras is a busy container-cargo port.
The rock is full of tunnels and caves. Military sieges of the late 18th century led to the excavation of a honeycomb of more than 50 km of tunnels, and some sections can be visited by prior arrangement. Most visitors, however, settle for a visit to St. Michael's Cave, an immense cavern with the huge main chamber called Cathedral Cave used as an auditorium for concerts. This was where Miss World was held in 2009.
When we exited the cave, we were greeted by a family of monkeys. These tail-less, cinnamon-coloured macaques are native to Morocco's Atlas Mountains and were brought here by the British in the 18th century. About 160 of them live in Gibraltar. They are free to roam, who tease and tolerate visitors, hoping for handouts. Brash and bold, they take treats and allow us to take their pictures. Visitors are cautioned not to touch them as they may bite if frightened or annoyed.
After some photo ops with the Barbary apes, we went back to our mini buses for our trip down and back to the border.
And while we’re on the subject of monkeys, allow me to expound on the so-called “monkey business”.
According to legend, if the ravens ever disappear from the Tower of London, both the tower and the British kingdom will crumble. And so, at the venerable stone compound in the center of London, one of the colorful Yeoman Warders or Beefeaters is appointed Ravenmaster. It’s his job to feed and care for a flock of at least six of the traditionally ill-boding black birds so they always feel welcome. Also, their wings are clipped so they can’t fly away.
About a thousand miles south of London, a parallel superstition holds sway. The future of one of the last vestiges of the British empire, Gibraltar, on Spain’s southern coast, is said to depend on monkeys. And in a sense, maybe it does.
In 1704, not long after British and Dutch forces captured Gibraltar from Spain, a shepherd led 500 Spanish soldiers up a goat path on the eastern side of the Rock. The sneak attack was foiled, it was said, when sounds of agitation from the Barbary apes living there alerted the garrison. Thus was born the belief that as long as the "apes"—actually macaque monkeys—live on Gibraltar, Gibraltar shall be British.
The British military fed and managed Gibraltar’s macaques for decades until ceding the job to local authorities in the 1990s. When the macaque population dwindled to seven during World War II, Winston Churchill ordered seven more ferried over from North Africa.
It’s unclear how this sovereignty-monkey linkage works, but there’s no arguing with results. This past year, Gibraltar celebrated (and Spain rued) 300 years of continuous British control of the area while the macaques ambled contentedly over the vegetated, western side of the Rock, high above Gibraltar city and harbor. On most days, the monkeys can see across the blue Strait of Gibraltar to the northern coast of Africa, where their ancestors likely originated.
Gibraltar’s macaques are a major tourist attraction. According to local officials, more than 700,000 visitors a year pay to drive their own cars or take a tour bus, van or cable car up the Rock, designated a nature preserve since 1990. As lucrative as the monkey business has been for Gibraltar, it’s unclear how long the present arrangements can last. In the early 1990s, the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society, a local environmental activist group, took over the job of feeding most of the monkeys from the British military. Soldiers have mostly withdrawn from the colony. In an age of cruise missiles and spy satellites, occupying the high ground at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea no longer holds much strategic importance. Or, does it?
Anyhow, veering away from the subject of monkey business, I really enjoyed my day at Gibraltar, monkeys and all. What a fun-filled day, indeed!
Back on the coach, we continued on to our next destination, Seville.
Along the way, we stopped at one of the haciendas that grow olive trees and had what Trafalgar calls “Be My Guest” dinner.
Upon arrival, we were given a tour of the hacienda. I listened intently as the owner of the plantation explained to us in detail how they make extra virgin olive oil, as well as the different kinds of olive oil. So now I know. I apologize but I don’t feel like sharing my new-found knowledge about olive oil. Besides, I don’t want to make this travelogue longer than it already is. Nah…. I wasn’t actually listening as I was busy taking pictures. (haha)
After the tour, we were offered a drink endemic to Spain called “Sangria”.
Wow! It must have been the best sangria I’ve ever tasted and so I drank more than I should. (Oooops, sorry liver, I’ll just deal with you later. But for now, I’ll enjoy the drink, the sumptuous food that was prepared for us, and the ambience.) That was me talking to my liver while enjoying a delicious meal of Andalucian specialties prepared for our group. Oooh la la - paradise on earth, indeed! In fact, I enjoyed the feast so much that I forgot to take some photos. It was a very memorable night for me.
After dinner, we got back on the coach, motored our way to Seville, and checked in into Tryp Macarena Hotel. The photo below was the view from my hotel room. It's fantabulous!
With such a fabulous view embedded in my mind, I finally drifted off to lala-land.
To Be Continued....
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