After mass, we went to the Upper Basilica for a visit and some photo ops. The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, known widely as the Upper Basilica, was the second of the churches to be completed, consecrated in 1876. It is an impressive, elaborate building in Gothic style and on one side seems to emerge directly from the rock of Massabielle (the sanctuary is directly above the Grotto). The walls are lined with ex voto plaques and banners from official National Pilgrimages of the past. It has a series of stained-glass windows depicting various events in the story of Lourdes while the clerestory windows depict Mary as the Second Eve. The exterior is dominated by a 70m spire, and two lesser spires. Above the entrance is a mosaic depicting Pope Pius IX, who defined the dogma of the Immaculate Conception in 1854.
The Rosary Basilica, on the other hand, is the third of the churches to be completed in 1899 and was consecrated in 1901 and has a capacity of 1,500 worshippers. Its style is influenced by Byzantine architecture. The nave is open and circular, surmounted by a dome. The exterior of the dome is surmounted by a dramatic gilded crown and cross, which were a gift from the people of Ireland in 1924.
After our photo ops, Marilyn, Grace and I drank water that comes from the spring.
Thereafter, we had lunch to celebrate Grace’s birthday. And being the celebrant, and generous at that, she paid for our lunch. After my happy lunch of yummy crepes, we went back to the grotto for the so-called “Baths”.
The Baths of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes are marble bathing pools where pilgrims are immersed as they respond to the request of Our Lady to Bernadette: “Go drink of the spring and wash yourself there”. Going through the Baths is a human and spiritual experience carried out by pilgrims who wish to renew their baptismal commitment. The water for the Baths is provided by the spring of the grotto. There is free access to the Baths and there is no need to make a reservation. Pilgrims do not need to bring anything with them. All that is required is provided on the spot to preserve a person’s modesty and dignity.
Anyhow, we lined up along with hundreds (if not thousands) of pilgrims waiting for our turn to get in. Can you imagine lining up for about 2 hours just to be dunked in freezing cold water? So finally, they let us in to sit and wait. We were told to pray and think of our intentions. Then it was my turn. The helpers in the baths assisted and guided me and at no time was I naked. I went into the undressing area where they put a blue cape on me and made me wait for my turn to go into the bath itself, where there were three other people waiting to assist me. The blue cape was taken off at the same time the white cloth I wore into the bath itself was put on me. I was made to sit and soak for seconds in water while they prayed with me and then made me stand up and helped me dress immediately without allowing me to even dry my body. I do have to warn you that the water is extremely cold and can be a shock to your system. But guess what, I was not freezing when I got out of the bath itself and the bizarre thing was that I was bone dry. It was a very moving experience and a bit overwhelming.
After having been “cleansed” physically, Marilyn and I decided to cleanse our “souls”. Grace mysteriously disappeared after having been immersed in the freezing water (haha). So, we went to have our confession at The Chapel of Reconciliation. The Chapel is somewhat unusual in that no masses or other services take place there; instead it is given over entirely to the Sacrament of Reconciliation. Priests from different countries observe a duty roster, which means that at almost any time of day, pilgrims can find a priest who will hear their confession in their own language. Anyhow, the priest that I went to was from Ireland and it was done in such a way that I just seemed to have a conversation with him instead of the usual “recitation” of my sins. And so far, it was the best confession I ever had in my entire life. As you know, every once in a while an episode in your life changes the way you think, feel, or look at things, and that experience was certainly one of those times.
Thereafter, we decided to have a closer look at the Spring which is at the same spot where it was discovered by Bernadette. The original spring can be seen within the Grotto, lit from below and protected by a glass screen. The water was thoroughly analyzed by independent chemists in 1858 and 1859. It does not appear to have a latent power to cure and has no special scientific or medical properties. Despite this, the water is itself a strong symbol of devotion for Lourdes’ pilgrims.
Close-up view
After more photo ops around the Sanctuary, we did a little bit of shopping for religious items, and then went back to the hotel for dinner, after which we went back to attend the Torchlight Procession. Processions are held in the Domain, with the Torchlight Procession being perhaps the best known and most visually impressive. It takes place daily at 8.45pm and begins outside the Grotto, passed the Gave, alongside the ramps, and ends up in the Rosary Square. The procession is led by pilgrims bearing a replica of the Statue of the Virgin Mary. The groups usually proceed together under their group banner. Most participants carry a candle with a paper shade which diffuses the light and makes the candle less likely to blow out. The focus of this procession is the rosary. All five decades are recited, usually in a variety of languages. The Lourdes Hymn is also sung, with verses in different languages. Intercessions may be invoked followed by the Laudate Mariam. The final blessing is in Latin.
Personally, I had goose bumps when we attended the procession, due to both awe and wonder. It was thrilling to be on soil sanctified by the Blessed Virgin Mary’s presence. The crush of humanity was intoxicating, as was the impressive torch and candlelight procession. Any other crowd gathered for any other purpose wouldn’t be as reverential as the one gathered that evening. It was simply inspiring!
Thereafter, we went to get more Lourdes water to take with us on the trip. And we then called it a night.
Note: As an addendum, many people remain skeptical about Lourdes and its supposed healing power, arguing that any improvement offered by the shrine is no more than the placebo effect, and that the ceremonies and processions are no better than faith-healing on a grand scale. Whatever your religious orientation may be - is your choice. Let it be clear that I am not imposing my beliefs on anyone. I am just narrating my stories and my beliefs which you can take with a grain of salt.
To Be Continued....
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