By way of introduction, John de Yepes, youngest child of Gonzalo de Yepes and Catherine Alvarez, poor silk weavers of Toledo, learned the importance of self-sacrificing love from his parents. His father gave up wealth, status, and comfort when he married a weaver's daughter and was disowned by his noble family. After his father died, his mother kept the destitute family together as they wandered homeless in search of work. These were the examples of sacrifice that John followed with his own great love -- God.
When the family finally found work, John still went hungry in the middle of the wealthiest city in Spain. At 14, John took a job caring for hospital patients who suffered from incurable diseases and madness. It was out of this poverty and suffering that John learned to search for beauty and happiness not in the world, but in God.
After John joined the Carmelite order, Saint Teresa of Avila asked him to help her reform movement. John supported her belief that the order should return to its life of prayer. But many Carmelites felt threatened by this reform, and some members of John's own order kidnapped him. He was locked in a cell 6X10 feet and beaten three times a week by the monks. There was only one tiny window high up near the ceiling. Yet in that unbearable dark, cold, and desolation, his love and faith were like fire and light. He had nothing left but God -- and God brought John his greatest joys in that tiny cell.
After 9 months, John escaped by unscrewing the lock on his door and creeping past the guard. Taking only the mystical poetry he had written in his cell, he climbed out a window using a rope made of strips of blankets. With no idea where he was, he followed a dog to civilization. He hid from pursuers in a convent infirmary where he read his poetry to the nuns. From then on, his life was devoted to sharing and explaining his experience of God's love.
When he fell ill, he was moved to the monastery of Ubeda where he at first was treated very unkindly, but at last even his adversaries came to acknowledge his sanctity, and his funeral was the occasion of a great outburst of enthusiasm. The body, still incorrupt, as has been ascertained within the last few years, was moved to Segovia.
Anyhow, before going inside the Church of St. John of the Cross, we had some photo ops against the backdrop of the famous Alcázar castle, source of inspiration to Walt Disney, and where Queen Isabel promised Columbus the financial backing he needed to discover America.
As a backgrounder, the Alcázar of Segovia (Segovia Castle) is a stone fortification, located in the old city of Segovia. Rising out on a rocky crag above the confluence of the rivers Eresma and Clamores near the Guadarrama mountains, it is one of the most distinctive castle-palaces in Spain by virtue of its shape - like the bow of a ship. The Alcázar was originally built as a fortress but has served as a royal palace, a state prison, a Royal Artillery College and a military academy since then.
Today, the Alcázar remains one of the most popular historical sights in Spain and is one of the three major attractions in Segovia. Notable rooms are the Hall of Ajimeces which houses many works of art, the Hall of the Throne and the Hall of Kings with a frieze representing all of the Spanish Kings and Queens.
After mass at the Shrine of St. John of the Cross, we motored towards Madrid, the capital of Spain. It is a city almost without equal in Europe. It is the vivacious, teeming, always beating heart of Spain. Long stifled under the fascist regime of Francisco Franco, Madrid has enjoyed a rebirth of political and social freedom during the last quarter century not witnessed since the Spanish capital's golden age in the 16th century.
Contemporary Madrid is a sprawling, modern city with a population of over 3 million. While the suburban areas are awash in uniform, concrete apartment buildings, the city center is a delightful mix of narrow alleyways, gourmet restaurants, and world famous modern art and Renaissance museums. Everyone arrives in the capital with varied pictures of Madrid in their mind, yet the city always shows you something new, something you missed or had not expected.
Located in the heart of the Iberian Peninsula and right in the center of the Castilian plain 646 meters above sea level (the highest capital in Europe), the climate of Madrid is characterized by warm dry summers and cool winters. A cosmopolitan city, a business center, headquarters for the Public Administration, Government, Spanish Parliament and the home of the Spanish Royal Family, Madrid also plays a major role in both the banking and industrial sectors. Most of its industry is located in the Southern fringe of the city, where important textile, food and metal working factories are clustered. A city of great monuments, it is also characterized by intense cultural and artistic activity and a very lively nightlife. But it is not just a cultural destination. It is also a lively metropolis with many pubs, cafes, discos and nightclubs open late into the night. So don't be surprised if you get stuck in a traffic jam at four in the morning and the people you meet are not necessarily going off to work. Hmmm……
Upon arrival into the city, we immediately checked in into our hotel, Hotel Ganivet, after which Grace and I ventured out for some retail therapy. But I was quite disappointed because most of the shops that we sauntered into were selling “made in China” stuff. Yikes!
Anyhow at the appointed time, we went back to the hotel to leave for a panoramic tour of the city with a local guide. Our first stop was to pose in front of the monument of Jose P. Rizal, the Philippines’ national hero. Rizal’s monument was inaugurated on December 5, 1996 along the Avenida de Las Islas Filipinas in Madrid to commemorate the 100th year of his death. The inauguration was part of the celebrations marking the centennial of Philippine independence from Spain.
To encapsulate his life, Dr. José Rizal was a Filipino polymath, nationalist and the most prominent advocate for reforms in the Philippines during the Spanish colonial era and its eventual independence from Spain. Rizal’s military trial and execution in 1896, during the Spanish period, made him a martyr of the Philippine Revolution. He was a polyglot (someone who uses many languages), who was conversant in at least 10 languages. He was a prolific poet, essayist, diarist, correspondent, and novelist. His most famous works were his two novels, “Noli me Tangere” and “El Filibusterismo.”
Rizal earned a Bachelor of Arts degree from the Ateneo Municipal de Manila. He later enrolled in Medicine and Philosophy and Letters at the University of Santo Tomas. He continued his studies in Spain where he earned the degree of Licentiate in Medicine from the Universidad Central de Madrid. He also attended the University of Paris and earned a second doctorate at the University of Heidelberg.
As a political figure, Rizal was the founder of La Liga Filipina, a civic organization that subsequently gave birth to the Katipunan led by Bonifacio and Aguinaldo. He was a proponent of institutional reforms by peaceful means rather than by violent revolution. The general consensus among Rizal scholars, however, attributed his martyred death as the catalyst that precipitated the Philippine Revolution.
After our group photo in front of Rizal’s monument, we continued with our panoramic tour of the city. The city is divided into the “old Madrid” which has the old buildings; and the “new Madrid” which has the skyscrapers. Having said this, however, I noticed that while Madrid possesses a modern infrastructure, it has preserved the look and feel of many of its historic neighborhoods and streets, as can be gleaned from the photos below:
Plaza de Cibeles
Plaza de Cibeles is one of the finest squares in Madrid, and as a result of its beauty, it has managed to become a major symbol of the city. The imperial majesty of Spain's capital city is on display at this busy plaza, with buildings such as the Palacio de Comunicaciones and the Banco de España figuring among the most architecturally appealing structures in the entire city. In the center of it all lies the attractive Cibeles Fountain, which is a major symbol of the city in its own right. The immediate area in general boasts an enticing appeal that is simply hard to deny, and some of the best Madrid views can be enjoyed from any number of vantage points.
Plaza Mayor
No visit to Madrid would be complete without enjoying some time in the Plaza Mayor. Plaza Mayor is Madrid's most emblematic square, and this has a lot to do with its rich history and its overall grandeur. The Plaza Mayor Statue depicts Philip III on a horse and dates back to the early 1600s. In fact, hanging out in this attractive plaza is one of the top things to do in Spain's capital city. At the base of the square's buildings are a number of shops and restaurants, and even if you aren't up for shopping or dining, the square can be a great place to just hang out and take it all in.
Puerta de Alcalá
Puerta de Alcalá stands at Plaza de la Independencia in Madrid. The original Puerta de Alcalá, which stood nearby, was built in 1599 as a welcome gesture to Doña Margarita de Austria, who was the wife of King Felipe III. When Carlos III came to the throne of Spain one and a half centuries later, he entered Madrid in great style but was not at all pleased with this city gate, thinking it quite unsuitable for an important royal appearance.
He demanded that a much more flamboyant gate should be built, and called for architects to present their proposed plans. Although several great architects of the age presented their proposals, it was an Italian architect, Francisco Sabatini, who was finally granted the commission. In 1764, the original Puerta de Alcalá was demolished and work started on the grand new gate. The new Puerta de Alcalá was completed in 1769 and its official inauguration took place in 1778. The gate has a large central semicircular topped arch, flanked by two similar arches. They are in turn flanked by two square lintelled gates, five in all.
Puerta del Sol
The Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun), located in the very heart of Madrid, is one of the best known and busiest places in Madrid. This is the centre (Km 0) of the radial network of Spanish roads, from which all roads and highways start. The square also contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year.
The Puerta del Sol contains a number of well known sights associated both domestically and internationally with Spain. On the south side, the old Post Office serves as the office of the President of Madrid, the head of the regional government of the Autonomous Community of Madrid (not to be confused with the Madrid City Council, which is housed elsewhere). Also on its south side, the square holds a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain, nicknamed "el rey alcalde" ("the king mayor") due to the extensive public works program he set in motion. On the east side lies a statue of a bear and a madrone tree (madroño), the heraldic symbol of Madrid.
The statue of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza in Plaza de España
Neptune Fountain
Colorful facade of a building in a street in old Madrid
Madrid is the administrative and financial capital of Spain. In here you will find the most important Stock exchange in Spain. Almost all the important financial institutions have their headquarters here.
BBVA skyscraper
Banco Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria (BBVA) is one of the biggest banks in Spain. Although its headquarters is in Bilbao, the bank has a huge delegation in Madrid's financial district. It is one of the most important architectural landmarks of Madrid, with its striking ocher color, more intense as time passes due to the oxidation of its facade steel. It has a rectangular floor with round corners, and the facade is made of continuous glass and steel, allowing exterior views from every point. The South, East and West facades also have steel sunshades in every floor, contributing to its characteristic look.
Torre Picasso
From 1988 till 2007, Torre Picasso (Picasso Tower) was the tallest building in Madrid with its 157m (515 ft) and 43 floors. A notable feature of Torre Picasso is the wide entrance arch, supporting the whole façade over it, with an underground steel structure serving to reinforce it. The gap under this arch is covered by a special security glass. It is strictly forbidden to take any photos of the tower or any other construction from within the perimeter of the property. Guards will demand you leave the premises at the mere sight of your camera, citing security concerns and image rights. While the owners present the tower as an emblematic symbol of Madrid for the citizens, for photography enthusiasts, the tower has become a symbol of restriction and prohibition.
Kio Towers
The Puerta de Europa towers (Gate of Europe or just Torres KIO) are twin office buildings in Madrid. The towers have a height of 114m (374 ft) and have 26 floors. They were constructed from 1989 to 1996. They were designed by the American architects, Philip Johnson and John Burgee, built by Fomento de Construcciones y Contratas and commissioned in 1996 by the Kuwait Investment Office (hence their initial name "Torres KIO" or "KIO Towers"). Each building is 115m tall with an inclination of 15°, making them the first inclined skyscrapers in the world.
Cuatro Torres Business Area
Cuatro Torres Business Area (CTBA) (Four Towers Business Area) is a business district located in the Paseo de la Castellana. The area contains the tallest skyscrapers in Madrid and Spain (Torre Espacio, Torre de Cristal, Torre Sacyr Vallehermoso and Torre Caja Madrid). The construction of the buildings finished in 2008. The complex was formerly known as Madrid Arena.
Thereafter, we got off the bus to go to the Almudena Cathedral. Along the way, we passed through the Royal Palace for some photo ops outside the palace. I was quite disappointed that we were unable to go inside the palace.
Palacio Real de Madrid (The Royal Palace of Madrid)
The official residence of the King of Spain in the city of Madrid, the Royal Palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Juan Carlos and the Royal Family do not reside in the palace, choosing instead the more modest Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid. The palace is owned by the Spanish State and administered by the Patrimonio Nacional, a public agency of the Ministry of the Presidency. It is partially open to the public, except when it is being used for official business.
Palacio Real visitors should prepare themselves to be wowed, especially if they venture inside the sprawling complex to get a look at some of the more than 2,000 rooms. It is a most impressive palace, its size intended to dwarf the other palaces on the European continent at the time.
Thereafter, we headed to the Almudena Cathedral, the main cathedral in Madrid. On our way there, I saw a headless man, as shown below:
:)
The construction of the Almudena Cathedral was conceived by Carlos I in 1518, though work didn't start until the 1880s. Delays were prominent throughout the construction process. Interestingly enough, the Catedral de la Almudena, as it is known in Spanish, wasn't finished until 1993. As you might imagine, this has resulted in a number of different architectural styles being implemented. The exterior has a mostly neoclassical appeal that blends well with the Palacio Real, which is located directly across from the facade of the cathedral. As for its interior, it is decidedly neo-gothic and has a relatively modern feel.
Exterior of Almudena Cathedral
Interior of Almudena Cathedral
By way of introduction, the devotion to Our Lady of Almudena, patroness of Madrid, began in the 11th century. Tradition tells us that when Dom Alfonso VI conquered Madrid in 1083, he immediately ordered the purification of the Church of Santa Maria, which had been profaned by the Moors.
Since the statue of Our Lady, which the Apostle St. James had placed in that building in the early days of the Church, had disappeared, the King, together with the religious authorities, made a procession praying to Our Lord to help them find the statue. The pious cortege processed around the walls of the city, singing and praying. At a certain moment, part of the wall fell and they found the statue of Our Lady that had been hidden there for over 300 years. On either side of the statue were two candles – still lighted and burning – that Catholics had placed there in homage of the Virgin before closing the niche where they had hidden her statue. Almudena means market or granary, and this name was given to the statue because the place where it was hidden was near the Moorish granary.
No discussion about the Almudena Cathedral would be complete without mentioning how controversial the building is. The relative lack of Old World charm when compared to other continental cathedrals such as Paris' Notre Dame is part of the reason why it brings on some criticism. Regardless of what your final take might be, this Cathedral in Madrid nonetheless deserves a look. There is a certain beauty to the outside, especially when viewed in tandem with the Palacio Real from afar, and the grandiose interior is impressive. The soaring ceilings and colorful paintings in the main nave add to the somewhat tame beauty. Pop art stained glass windows hint at the church's relatively young age, although these windows were recently revealed to be copies. In 2004, the Almudena Cathedral served as the venue for the wedding of Spain's Prince Felipe.
After the panoramic tour, we got off at the plaza and went shopping. But the shopping center that we went into was deserted, so we (Marilyn, Grace and I) decided to walk back to the hotel. With our stomachs grumbling, we enjoyed some tapas at the hotel’s bar and took it easy. Armed with some fuel, we decided to have some retail therapy (yet again). Well, what else can we do, right? Again, I was disappointed with their shops, so I returned to the hotel empty-handed; had dinner, after which I retired early for the night as we have a long day ahead of us.
As an aside, people in Madrid are very friendly and open minded. It's not difficult to make new friends (especially at night). If you ever come to Madrid, you will notice that people are always ready to help you. The problem, however, is that not many people speak English. Although English is studied in schools, many locals only know a few words.
Madrileños (how locals are called) like going to bed late at night and waking up late in the morning. They usually start their day with chocolate con churros (thick hot chocolate with deep-fried hoops of batter) or coffee with 'bollos' (rolls). They eat lunch at three o'clock, go back to work at four till seven or eight, and eat dinner at ten at home. If and when they go out, they eat dinner at eleven or even later.
So - if you're planning a travel to Spain, try to adapt to this timetable, because restaurants usually open for lunch at one or two o'clock and close at four, and open at nine and close at midnight for dinner.
To Be Continued.....
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