There were 7 of us joining from Oahu and flying to Maui for this tour (2 couples, a mother-daughter team, and myself). The van dropped us off at the airport and we checked in with Go Airlines, a small inter-island plane. As soon as our flight was called, I immediately sprinted towards the gate and was the first to board the aircraft as it was open seating. Of course, I took the first seat on the first row.
While we were waiting for the plane to depart, one of the passengers yelled that there was smoke coming out from the floor. When I heard it, I thought I was going to have a heart attack. So, I started praying. The flight attendant calmed everybody down by saying that it was just condensation and nothing to worry about. When the pilot heard the commotion, he went out of his cabin to assure everybody that there was nothing to worry about and that the smoke, indeed, was just condensation. As soon as I saw the pilot who looked like the young Robert Redford, my fear suddenly evaporated (just like the condensation, haha) and just enjoyed the 30-minute flight to Maui.
As a backgrounder, Maui is one of the most beautiful islands in Hawaii. Maui’s tourism along the west coast flourishes, dominated by two commanding volcano pinnacles banded together by a low rise strip of land. Lahaina, a charming seaside community which most visitors use as a base for their Maui vacation, boasts small inns, beachside resorts, museums, art galleries and some of the best restaurants in Maui. Kihei, also on the west coast of Maui, is the most commercial town.
Though the north coast enjoys the least of Maui tourism, there are many charming seaside towns, excellent windsurfing, peaceful coastal paths, and some of the prettiest and best beaches in Maui.
Although the heart of Maui is dominated by arid, desert-like scenery and the idle Mount Haleakala, the national park surrounding the mountain offers some of the most exciting outdoor activities on the island. The landscape, once lush and fertile, became arid and barren after the last volcanic eruption in 1790.
The east coast, on the other hand, enjoys some of the highest levels of rainfall creating the most lush, tropical environment in all of Maui. Plunging valleys and the twisting, tapered Road to Hana make the east coast drive one of the most impressive scenic routes in Maui. The wild and undulating mountainous region is replete with waterfalls and flourishing rainforests. There are numerous beaches near Hana, the most unusual being Red Sand Beach, only a short walk from the heart of Hana.
In retrospect, I had long wanted (very badly) to go to Hana. I had read and heard that the Road to Hana is something that must be experienced at least once in a lifetime. And the best way to do this is by taking a bus tour.
And so the 7 of us hopped onboard the mini tour bus that was waiting for us at Maui airport. Again, I sprinted ahead of the group so I could get the best seat (which happens to be on the driver’s side of the bus based on my research).
Our tour bus driver was Terry, who was a walking encyclopedia. Enroute from the airport, I noticed that Maui airport is smacked right in the middle of a sugarcane plantation. Cool! Along the way, we passed through Sparklesville where one could see million-dollar homes.
Our first stop was a breakfast joint in the old town of Paia. I ordered “Hawaiian” French toast (which was anything but Hawaiian) but which I enjoyed anyway because I happen to love French toasts (anything that has eggs is a delight to my palate).
Soon we were on our way to that mystical town called Hana (which means Work in Hawaiian). I have to say that when we got into the rainforests and the roads were winding and turning like nothing on earth, I was loving it!
And the views were to die for! Every time we caught a glimpse of the coastline, there would be a collective sigh and appreciative murmurs from everyone on the bus!
There were a bunch of gorgeous waterfalls and plenty of lookout points on the way where we stopped for a few minutes to have some clicks.
We also stopped at the Kaumahina State Park for some photo ops:
But the first major stop was at Keanae Peninsula, created from an immense lava flow originating from Haleakala Crater. Today, it is home to a few local residents, taro fields, world-class fishing, and great photo opportunities of the shore’s powerful waves crashing against its black, jagged, lava rocks.
A word of caution: you should NEVER bring lava rocks home. Legend has it that Pele, goddess of fire and volcanoes, is so angered when the rocks (which she sees as her children) are taken from her that she exacts a terrible revenge on the thief. She is especially protective of volcanic rock and sand, two items tourists almost unthinkingly pocket as mementos of their vacations.
Continuing with our road trip, we stopped at a roadside stall selling a variety of homemade banana bread. Oh man, that stuff was to die for!!
Next on the agenda was the Waianapanapa State Park where we stopped for lunch. I have to say though that if you are in any of these tours that offer packed lunch, just pack your own. The food was mediocre, at best, and it left so much to be desired. But then again, with my meager appetite, I really didn’t care. Remember, the purpose of this tour was sightseeing, not eating.
After some clicks, I went to explore the trails and found the cave –
- where I was able to take one of the best photos taken on this trip:
- and finally ended up on the black sand beach:
Enroute to Hana, Terry took us to Paul Fagan’s cross, a stop that was not included in the itinerary. This lava cross sits atop Lyon’s Hill overlooking Hana. It was built in 1960 as a memorial to Paul Fagan, founder of the Hotel Hana Maui.
Perhaps you are wondering who Paul Fagan is and why a cross was erected in his honor.
Allow me then to give you a brief historical background.
Hana is a very special place. It is the most Hawaiian of places you will discover in Hawaii. It has the slow pace and friendly people of time long past. And it also has a history.
When the gold rush hit California in 1849, Hawaii stepped in as a major supplier of commodities. Produce was quickly attempted in Hana, with sugar cultivation the only crop to succeed. By 1883, there were six separate sugar plantations in the Hana area. But by 1940, sugar was becoming too expensive to grow due to the increases in labor cost brought about by the influence of the expanding labor unions. Sugar plantations were closing and the Hana people were losing their jobs. To the rescue came Paul Fagan, one of Hana’s sugar growers.
Paul Fagan also had a cattle ranch on the Island of Molokai. At Hana he looked at the hills before him where sugar used to grow, and he decided to realize a dream. In 1944, he purchased 45,000 acres of land, had his cattle shipped over from Molokai, and Hana Ranch was born.
He next noted the millions of military visitors to Oahu during and after the war and thought “why not?” He and his wife built the Hotel Hana Maui, and constructed a nearby airfield for wealthy travelers who wanted to see something other than Waikiki in Oahu.
Paul Fagan also owned a professional baseball team in San Francisco. Once his hotel was up and running, he brought his team to Hana for spring training, along with every sports writers he could find. The word of Hana was quickly introduced to millions of people around the country by the writings of the sports writers, and the rest, as they say, is history.
When Paul Fagan died, and for all he did for the people of Hana by giving them jobs and a future, they erected a memorial in his honor. It’s called Fagan’s Cross, and this stone structure looks down from a hill above his Hotel Hana Maui, now renamed Travaasa Hana.
There is a road to the top of the hill (not generally open to the public) and from the cross are incredible views overlooking the emerald green slopes across the town of Hana and Hana Bay, as could be gleaned from the photos below:
As we continued our drive to Hana, I soon realized why it was called Heavenly Hana. The town is completely untouched by commercialization. There is one gas station, one school and one bank. In fact, Terry told us that banking hours are only from 3:00-4:30pm everyday except on Fridays when it’s from 3:00-6:00pm. Unbelievable in this day and age! Moreover, all the residents care about is keeping Hana untouched by the development that has been a boon and a bane for the other Hawaiian Islands. The houses are small but surrounded by massive lands filled with plants and trees. And as we crossed the town, we saw Hana in its most pristine state with breathtaking views. It was indeed heavenly!
On a related note, Terry told us an anecdote called Heavenly Hana Story. It was said that God created the world in 6 days and, on the 7th day, He moved to Hana.
Continuing on, we came upon the spectacular Wailea Falls -
- and the fantabulous Seven Sacred Pools:
The Oheo Gulch, cleverly re-branded as the seven sacred pools by local industry to draw tourists, is a string of pools and waterfalls, starting many miles up the mountain, that flow one after another, cascading over dramatic waterfalls, leading to the rugged Kipahulu coastline and the deep-blue Hawaiian ocean.
In all of these, I have to applaud Terry for his driving skills. I would never have been able to drive on the road to Hana! Not only were the roads winding with hairpin turns, they were also extremely narrow. I believe the trip is more enjoyable when someone else is driving. The only downside to this is that, as with conducted tours, I couldn’t stop when I wished and couldn’t click pictures to my heart’s desire.
However, if you insist on driving, keep in mind that some of the locals from Hana make the long commute to work in Kahului each day. If you see a local vehicle approaching from behind, pull over and let them pass. By the same token, locals' familiarity with the route can lead them to cut across corners (even blind corners) swerving back into their lane at the last minute, so take corners slowly and watch for oncoming traffic that may have encroached upon your lane. Also, don't trespass! If you respect the land and the people, you'll find open arms and acceptance.
Anyhow, after the town of Hana, Terry took us through 12 miles of uneven road, which I would aptly describe as the proverbial “the road less traveled” or “off the beaten path”. But mind you, there were still spectacular views along the way which could be considered “kodak” moments, such as the light at the end of the tunnel or an ocean view as far as the eyes can see.
Take note that it is possible to drive all the way around the island by continuing past Hana instead of going back the way you came; however, rental car companies strongly discourage this and state that the rental car contract is voided if you drive there. This is the reason why it would be advisable to take the bus tour so you will have a chance to circle the island. By doing so, I was able to appreciate the stark contrast between one side of the mountain being lush green and the other side being barren. Simply astounding!
Some photos below to prove my point:
Our last stop was at Maui’s winery, the Tedeschi winery within the Ulupalakua Ranch, for some wine tasting. I tasted the pineapple wine but it was too sweet for my liking, so I just looked around a little bit and hopped back onto the bus. And with that, our day trip to Hana has come to an end.
Terry drove us back to Maui airport for our return flight to Honolulu. After checking in with Go Airlines, I settled down into the waiting area, exhausted but contented.
Our flight was delayed by 30 minutes and as soon as our flight was called, I sprinted ahead of the group again and, being open seating, took the front row of the plane. No “smoking” condensation this time but since the plane was not full, some of the passengers were asked to take the seats at the back to make the plane balanced. Go figure…..
Moreover, when I looked at the cockpit and saw the pilot who looked like Charlie Chaplin (with his moustache curled up), I giggled like a schoolgirl as I found it to be hilarious. When the flight attendant saw me laughing, she asked me why, to which I pointed to the pilot and motioned with my hands the moustache curled up, and she likewise burst out laughing. And seeing my tour badge, she asked if I was on a tour, to which I replied that I went on a “Road to Hana” tour. She said that she’s been to one and that it’s indeed an amazing tour. Amen to that, sister!
When we arrived at Honolulu airport, a van was waiting for us (as promised) and transported us back to our respective hotels. Rory picked me up at my drop-off point (Ala Moana Hotel) at 7:30pm and thereafter enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at home which Violy (yet again) had prepared.
To say that I was exhausted was an understatement. But I was running on adrenaline, so I had lots of energy left to chat about my experiences for the day and even convinced Violy and Rory to take the same tour sometime in the future.
To Be Continued....
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