Pilgrimage Travelogue #2: Lisieux / Paris, France

After a very early wake-up call and breakfast, we left for Lisieux, the city with a number of places related to the life of St. Therese. The most prominent are the Carmelite convent, her home (Les Buissonets), the cathedral, and the basilica.



By way of introduction, Thérèse of Lisieux or Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus, is also known as "The Little Flower of Jesus".

She felt an early call to religious life at the age of 15, and overcoming various obstacles, became a nun and joined two of her older sisters in the enclosed Carmelite community of Lisieux, Normandy. After 9 years as a Carmelite religious, and having spent the last 18 months in Carmel in a night of faith, she died of tuberculosis at the age of 24. Pope Pius XI made her the star of his pontificate. She was beatified in 1923, and canonized a saint in 1925.

The main reason for her great appeal to ordinary Catholics was her "Little Way" to holiness -- her example of achieving sanctity, not through undertaking great deeds, but through personal devotion and dedication. The young nun's autobiography, L'histoire d'une âme (Story of a Soul), written at the command of her prioress, was much admired for its deep spiritual wisdom and beauty. The book presented people with a compelling example of spiritual maturity and piety achieved by an ordinary young girl. An anecdote, that she had promised to send roses as a sign of her intercession, led to the affectionate nickname, the "Little Flower". Her shrine at Lisieux is still one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Europe.



After mass at the convent, we proceeded to her home (Les Buissonets) for a quick tour -









- after which we went back to her shrine for a quick tour of the museum and some photo ops, and then left for the Basilica of Lisieux, which is considered the second greatest place of pilgrimage in France after Lourdes. The basilica is considered one of the largest 20th century basilicas in the world. Its construction was finished in the 1950s. In recent years, its dome has been illuminated with blue lights creating a peaceful beacon overlooking the Lisieux valley.



After my traditional “3 wishes” and photo ops, we returned to our bus and motored back to Paris for a panoramic tour. And as we approached the famous city, the magnificent Arc de Triomphe came into view. I “oohed” and “ahhed” over architectural marvels such as the gold-leaf domed church holding Napoleon’s tomb called Hôtel des Invalides. Paris is truly beautiful. We zipped past the Champs Elysées, Musée du Louvre, and Musée d’Orsay among the sites. We saw upscale shops as well as simple delights.


Arc de Triomphe



Place de la Concorde



Underneath the “flame” is the bridge where Princess Diana had the accident


The time was short and there was so much to see! Paris, like many large urban areas, is a city of contrasts. Looking around gave me a small taste of how it must be for the average Parisian! Yet here I was in Paris - the city of love. With expectations high, I was ready for it.

There is so much history in Paris that often you do not know where to start. But for us, our first stop was Notre Dame Cathedral. Notre Dame is a beautiful cathedral on the Île de la Cité. It is an important example of French Gothic architecture, sculpture and stained glass.





Notre Dame is not the biggest, the tallest, or the oldest cathedral in the world, but it certainly is the most popular monument in Paris and in all of France, beating even the Eiffel Tower with 13 million visitors each year. But the famous cathedral is also an active Catholic church, a place of pilgrimage, and the focal point for Catholicism in France where religious events of national significance still take place.

Whether Notre Dame brings to mind Victor Hugo’s hunchback, Quasimodo or past architecture classes on ‘flying buttresses’, seeing the cathedral in the ‘flesh’ should be one of your ‘musts’ on any trip to Paris. If you’re not a churchgoer, the cathedral can be admired just as well from the exterior as from the interior. You can climb up to its bell tower for a magnificent view and a closer look at some of its decorative gargoyles.



Notre Dame was constructed between 1163 and 1334, and the amount of time and money spent on it reflected the city's growing prestige. Yet, it is the art, rather than its history, that awes, at least to me anyway. The west front remains a high point of Gothic art for the balanced proportions of its twin towers and rose window, and the three doorways with their rows of saints and sculpted tympanums: the Last Judgment (centre), Life of the Virgin (left) and Life of St Anne (right).



Inside, take a moment to admire the long nave with its solid foliate capitals -



- and the high altar with a marble Pietà by Coustou.



So whether you are going for a pilgrimage or just as a tourist, this fascinating building that has become a famous landmark in Paris is not to be missed.



Personally, there was a complete sense of awe as soon as I stepped inside the cathedral. The carvings and sculptures on the wall were simply amazing. I used to think that Notre Dame is just an old and huge cathedral. Far from it. I never thought it would be a masterpiece of art and architecture. This experience broadened my point of view of lots of places and stuff, things I never knew before, that would enlighten me during this tour.

Thereafter, we went to the Sacré-Coeur Basilica (Basilica of the Sacred Heart), one of Paris' major tourist draws. The majestic building is located on top of Montmartre hill, the highest point in the city.




The Sacré-Coeur Basilica’s iconography is distinctly nationalistic. Designed in a Romanesque-Byzantine architectural style, the triple-arched portico is surmounted by two bronze equestrian statues of France's national saints, Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX. Even the great bell, the Savoyarde, has nationalist references as Savoy was annexed to France in 1860. Cast in Annecy in 1895, it is one of the world's heaviest bells at 19 tons.

The Sacré-Coeur Basilica is built of Château-Landon (Seine-et-Marne) stone, a frost-resistant travertine that bleaches with age to a gleaming white. The main portal has grand bronze doors with foliage designs. Inside, the Sacré-Coeur is dim and rather gloomy except for the golden mosaics glowing from the apse. The apse mosaic is the largest in the world. It depicts Christ in Majesty and The Sacred Heart worshipped by the Virgin Mary, Joan of Arc and St. Michael the Archangel.



The floor plan is an equal-armed Greek cross, with a large dome (83m high) over the crossing. In the huge choir, 11 tall round arches support a barrel vault. The bronze altar is based on the one at Cluny Abbey in Burgundy. Since 1885, the Blessed Sacrament has been continually on display in a monstrance above the high altar. Perpetual adoration of the Blessed Sacrament has continued uninterrupted in the Basilica since 1885.

Anyhow, as soon as I stepped inside the basilica, I felt an air of tranquility and awe - a little slice of heaven. Inside is one of the largest and, surely, most beautiful mosaics in the world. It would be extremely difficult not to be amazed by its sheer beauty and serene atmosphere inside this church. I wish I had spent more time in there.

It’s unfortunate that we were unable to do this, but apparently, a climb to the top of the dome provides an excellent view of Paris. At 271 feet above Montmartre, it is the second highest viewpoint after the Eiffel Tower - and the walk around the inside of the dome alone is worth the climb.



The dome is supported by 80 columns, each topped with a different capital. The crypt contains statues of saints and a relic that some believe to be the very Sacred Heart of Christ. At the rear of the grounds is a contemplative garden and fountain.



Can you imagine yourself standing in front of the towering snow-white beauty of Sacre-Coeur Basilica, with the city of Paris stretched out behind you? I never imagined I could, but the photo above proved me wrong. It was spellbinding!

After an exhausting day, we went back to the hotel for dinner, after which I called it a night. Even though the Eiffel Tower beckons back at me, I was just too damn tired to see it again.


To Be Continued…..


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