Personally, I’m fascinated by the ways in which travel and spirituality intersect. Certain places have an almost magnetic pull on our souls, whether they’re to a holy site in a distant land or to a place of private meaning for a single person. But one thing that makes the pilgrimage different is the attitude toward it. However skeptical one may be about the basis of the pilgrimage and the supposedly “legends” surrounding it, one cannot help but be affected by it. And although it is not free of contradictions, one of its many little ironies is that the first step toward this state entails a certain amount of very practical preparation ahead of time. Yes, it's difficult to find the time and money, and even more difficult to do, but for those who want something more, you'll find it in your soul.
As it did in mine.
Thursday, May 26th - Departure
Anyhow, I woke up at an unholy hour of 3:30 on the morn of May 26th for an early pick-up at 4:45am by my brother, Leo, who was kind enough to take me and my other sister, Marilyn, to the airport for an early flight to Paris, via Calgary and Frankfurt.
After picking up Marilyn, we arrived at the airport well ahead of the appointed time of 6:00am for our group check-in. I think it’s apropos for me to say at this point that this trip was a stress-free one for me because, firstly, I have an older sister who looked after my needs and, secondly, all I did was just follow the tour group coordinator (Bennie) who took care of everything. As some of you may know, I knew Bennie from way back when we both worked at Telus Communications (albeit different departments) until she retired while I moved on to another company.
Back to my story, I then came to meet some members of the group, including Fr. Jerry, who was our spiritual director for this tour. So while waiting for our Air Canada flight to Calgary which has been slightly delayed, we played Trivia in Fr. Jerry’s iPad to keep us entertained. Did I mention that I got all the answers correct? And don’t you think that’s impressive? (wink! wink!)
When we landed in Calgary after a short one-hour flight from Vancouver, our group triggered an alarm at the airport because we stopped at the hallway where a big sign specifically read “DO NOT STOP”. But some folks had to wait for those who don’t and can’t walk fast, right? Ayayay….. I hope it’s not an omen of things to come. Anyhow, we continued walking towards our gate, only to be told to go back to the Lufthansa counter to get our boarding passes. I know I mentioned the advantage of a group tour, but allow me to mention one disadvantage --- some people think they know everything when in fact they DO NOT know anything. And that’s exactly what happened. There was this member of the group who took it upon herself to lead the herd when she was not qualified to do so. I wanted to start a revolt right there and then, but I calmed down reminding myself that I am a pilgrim, not a tourist. So I just went with the flow. How magnanimous of me, am I not?
After securing our boarding passes and passing through security, I triggered a “beep” and you very well know what that means, right? By the way, that was the first time triggering a beep happened to me. Obviously, I was apprehensive because I’ve heard and read a lot of stories surrounding security checks. Thankfully I was still on Canadian soil and as everybody knows, Canadians are friendlier, more tolerant and less anal than their counterparts south of the border (I meant Americans, hehe). So I was given 3 options by security people: a hand swipe, a body scan, or a body search. Of course I opted for the 1st option. If you ask me, I really don’t understand how it works, but all they did was swipe my palms with a long stick (looks more like a wand) and that was it. Go figure….. Finding no traces of explosives or weapons or illegal drugs (haha), I was allowed to go.
Anyhow, after that long walk to the gate and back to the airline counter and back to the gate again, plus the security check, we made it to our gate just in time for boarding. Whew! And guess what, in spite of everything, I didn’t panic. Did I mention I was with a tour group? haha
Having traveled far and wide and taken various airlines, I can say that my new fave is Lufthansa Airlines. It’s so spacious (read: more legroom), and being biased to anything “made in Germany”, it has a stigma of reliability attached to it. And food was good, too.
It was a 9-hour flight from Calgary to Frankfurt so I made use of my time by watching the movies, “The Little Fockers”, starring Ben Stiller and Robert de Niro, among others; and “The Switch”, starring Jennifer Aniston. No matter how much I tried, I couldn’t sleep because I was too damn excited about Paris. Oui! Enfin voir et de découvrir Paris!
Friday, May 27th – Paris (France)
When we deplaned at Frankfurt, we were herded onto a waiting bus right at the tarmac to take us to the terminal where we lined up for passport control; then lined up for security, after which we had to walk a long way to our gate for our connecting flight to Paris. At this time, everything was just like a blur. All I wanted was to get to Paris tout de suite! And as luck would have it, our flight to Paris has been delayed with no explanation given. Agh!
After waiting for what seemed like eternity, we finally boarded the plane, and after a short one-hour flight, we finally touched down at Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport.
I’ve heard a lot of stories about how chaotic Charles de Gaulle Airport is and how rude Parisians are but, again, that didn’t faze me as I was, (sorry but I had to say this again), with the tour group. All I did was follow Bennie. So, after retrieving our luggage, we just waited for Bennie’s instructions as to what to do and where to go. About this time, I was also looking out for a cousin (technically a niece as she’s the daughter of a cousin) named Grace who came from California and was supposed to join the group in Paris. But as luck would have it for her as well, she sent a text advising me that her flight has also been delayed, so she wasn’t able to meet up with us at the airport.
Anyhow, after “locating” our tour guide, or should I say – after the tour guide has located us, we then walked (albeit a long one) toward our tour bus which was waiting for us at the periphery of the airport terminal. Just imagine a large group of people lugging their suitcases from one end of the terminal to another. But again, it didn’t bother me one bit, as I was just too damn excited that I finally landed in Paris. After all, Paris is the capital and largest city in France and is home to many impressive and entertaining sights and venues.
As you all know, Paris is not only the seat of France's national government but is also one of the most populated metropolitan areas in Europe. Paris today is one of the world's leading business and cultural centers, and its influences in politics, education, entertainment, media, fashion, science, and the arts all contribute to its status as one of the world's major global cities.
With about 42 million tourists per year, Paris is the most visited city in the world. It is also considered today to be one of the most beautiful and vibrant cities in Europe. Three of the most famous Parisian landmarks are the 12th century cathedral Notre Dame de Paris on the Île de la Cité, the Napoleonic Arc de Triomphe and the 19th century Eiffel Tower. Paris' museums and monuments are among its highest esteemed attractions. The city's most prized museum, the Louvre, welcomes over 8 million visitors a year, being by far the world's most visited art museum. The city's cathedrals, Notre Dame de Paris and the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, are the other main attractions which receive 12 million and 8 million visitors, respectively. The Eiffel Tower, Paris' most famous monument, averages over 6 million visitors per year and more than 200 million since its construction. Having said all these, do you now understand why I can’t wait to explore the so-called “City of Lights”?
We then had a “taste” of how Paris rocks and grooves while on our way for lunch at Romana Bistro situated at Montparnasse, a shopping district in Paris. As you may have guessed, my face was practically glued to the window during the ride so I don’t miss anything. Typical bumper-to-bumper rush-hour traffic greeted us, but I did not mind it at all. After all, I have arrived!
After a hearty lunch, which honestly came and went in a blur due to lack of sleep, we picked up 4 other members of the group who were already in Paris (there were 30 of us all together in this tour), and then made our way to the docks for a cruise on the River Seine, the heart and soul of Paris.
Let me be very clear. If you come to visit Paris, don't skip the traditional and romantic Seine river cruise. At 485 miles, the Seine is the second longest and, without a doubt, the best-known river in France. It travels from Dijon in the Alps, passes through Paris which it cuts in half, and eventually empties into the English Channel at Le Havre. This divide by the River Seine through Paris is what gives the city its distinct geographic division. For instance, the Eiffel Tower and the Musee d'Orsay are on the south bank, while the Louvre, Grand Palais, and the Concorde can be found on the north bank. In the centre of Paris on the Ile de la Cite in the middle of the Seine River, you will find the Notre Dame Cathedral, among other monuments. And where the river forks in the centre of Paris, it creates two small islands called the Île de la Cité and the Ile Saint-Louis.
Tourists are often confused about the terms "right bank" and "left bank" and spend hours on street corners with crumpled maps trying to orient themselves and figure out which side of the riverbank they are standing on. The system is very simple and was devised because the river's curvy nature often does make orientation difficult. The trick is to remember when you face DOWNRIVER: the left bank is on your left and the right bank is on your right. If you can't tell left from right at this point, you should not be traveling alone. However, if you can't figure out which way the water is flowing (don't look at the boats, they go upstream too!), drop a potato chip or look for some debris and see which way it's floating. Then you will be able to make it to the Café Les Deux Magots and not end up at La Defense.
The scenery will not disappoint river cruisers who are excited about the romance of Paris. In addition to seeing architectural marvels, the Seine River has 37 picturesque bridges in Paris alone! Indeed, it is an exceptional, quick and relaxing way to view the sights of Paris in all its grandeur.
After the Seine River cruise, we were blessed to visit the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal where the Blessed Mother appeared to St. Catherine Labouré. We celebrated Mass and thereafter had the opportunity to “come to the foot of the altar” to see the incorrupt body of St. Catherine Labouré --
to be in the presence of the remains of St. Louise de Marillac --
and to pray before St. Vincent de Paul’s heart --
By way of introduction, the Miraculous Medal, also known as the Medal of the Immaculate Conception, is a medal created by Saint Catherine Labouré following a vision of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Many Catholics around the world (and some non-Catholics) wear the Miraculous Medal, which they believe will bring them special graces through the intercession of Mary if worn with faith and devotion at the hour of death.
Saint Catherine Labouré stated that on the night of July 18, 1830, she awoke upon hearing a voice of a child calling her to the sisters' chapel where she heard the Blessed Virgin Mary say to her, "God wishes to charge you with a mission. You will be contradicted, but do not fear; you will have the grace to do what is necessary. Tell your spiritual director all that passes within you. Times are evil in France and in the world."
On November 27, 1830, Catherine reported that the Blessed Mother returned during evening meditations. She displayed herself inside an oval frame, standing upon a globe, wearing many rings of different colors, most of which shone rays of light over the globe. Around the margin of the frame appeared the words, “Ô Marie, conçue sans péché, priez pour nous qui avons recours à vous” (in English, O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee). As Catherine watched, the frame seemed to rotate, showing a circle of twelve stars, a large letter M surmounted by a cross, and the stylized Sacred Heart of Jesus crowned with thorns and Immaculate Heart of Mary pierced with a sword. Asked why some of her rings did not shed light, Mary reportedly replied, "Those are the graces for which people forget to ask." Catherine then heard Mary ask her to take these images to her father confessor, telling him that they should be put on medallions, and saying "All who wear them will receive great graces." The medal then came to be referred to as the "Miraculous Medal".
Sister Catherine died on December 31, 1876. She was beatified on May 28, 1933. When her body was exhumed, after 57 years of burial, it was found to be completely incorrupt and supple. Catherine was canonized a Saint on July 27, 1947.
I cannot believe that the Chapel is right at the heart of Paris. I noticed that as soon as you open the door and step into the courtyard, the contrast is incredible. Outside is a jungle of humanity, embracing the world and all its trappings; but inside, peace and serenity embrace and blanket you. The feeling is simply incredible.
Anyhow, after mass and after fulfilling my traditional ‘not-to-be-missed’ 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to the Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul where his life story is recounted in stained glass windows and where his incorrupt body is preserved. His body rests above the main altar in a solid silver shrine while his heart is kept in the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal.
St. Vincent de Paul was born of a peasant family at Pouy, Gascony, France, in 1580, and worked as a shepherd boy on his father’s farm. At a young age, Vincent had a great desire to become a priest; and after completing his studies for the priesthood, he was ordained in 1600 and remained in the vicinity of Toulouse, acting as a tutor while continuing his own studies.
Having traveled to Marseilles for an inheritance and sailing home to Toulouse, Vincent was captured by Turkish pirates in the year 1605 and was taken to Tunis. He was maltreated and eventually sold as a slave; but he escaped two years later with his master, a renegade whom he eventually converted to Catholicism. Upon his escape from the Turkish pirates, Vincent immediately dedicated his life to the practice of spiritual and corporal works of charity. He set up many poor houses for the crippled and sick and personally cared for the patients who had the most contagious diseases. He would dress their wounds and nurse them back to health. Indeed there wasn’t a poor man that didn’t know of Vincent’s kindness.
In 1625, Vincent founded the Congregation of the Mission, a society of missioning priests commonly known as the Vincentians. In 1633, with the assistance of Louise de Marillac, he founded the Daughters of Charity. Vincent worked always for the poor, the enslaved, the abandoned, the ignored, the pariahs, and was renowned for his compassion, humility and generosity.
On September 27, 1660, Vincent died at the age of eighty, having faithfully served God throughout his whole life. On August 13, 1729, Vincent was declared Blessed by Benedict XIII; and on June 16, 1737, he was canonized a Saint by Clement XII. St. Vincent’s bones and heart are perfectly incorrupt. His relics can be seen in the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in Paris.
Again, I cannot believe that the Church of St. Vincent de Paul is just around the corner from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal. So, after a quick visit and photo ops inside the church, we proceeded to our hotel, the Ibis Paris Tour Eiffel France, where I finally reconnected with Grace. I can’t wait to see her because we haven’t seen each other for so many years. It’s a good thing we shared a room as we had a lot to make up for lost time. After hugs and kisses and unending stories, I came to know the tale surrounding her flight nightmare and that her luggage did not make it to Paris on time. Ayayay…..
The group then had dinner at the hotel, after which some of us decided to pay homage to the Eiffel Tower. After all, a visit to Paris will be incomplete if you miss seeing the iconic tower, right?
As a backgrounder, the Eiffel Tower is a puddle iron lattice tower located on the Champ de Mars in Paris. Built in 1889, it has become both a global icon of France and one of the most recognizable structures in the world. The tower is the tallest building in Paris and the most-visited paid monument in the world as millions of people ascend it every year. Named for its designer, engineer Gustave Eiffel, the tower was built as the entrance arch to the 1889 World's Fair.
The tower stands 324 metres (1,063 ft) tall, about the same height as an 81-storey building. Upon its completion, it surpassed the Washington Monument to assume the title of tallest man-made structure in the world, a title it held for 41 years, until the Chrysler Building in New York City was built in 1930; however, due to the addition in 1957 of the antenna, the tower is now taller than the Chrysler Building. Not including broadcast antennas, it is the second tallest structure in France after the 2004 Millau Viaduct.
Although the tower has become the most prominent symbol of both Paris and France, it was much criticized by the public when it was built, with many calling it an eyesore. In fact, Novelist Guy de Maupassant – who claimed to hate the tower – supposedly ate lunch in the Tower’s restaurant every day. When asked why, he answered that it was the one place in Paris where one could not see the structure. Today, the Tower is widely considered to be a striking piece of structural art.
I bet you didn’t know that Eiffel had a permit for the tower to stand for 20 years and that it was to be dismantled in 1909 when its ownership would revert to the City of Paris, right? Well, the City had planned to tear it down (part of the original contest rules for designing a tower was that it could be easily demolished) but as the tower proved valuable for communication purposes, it was allowed to remain after the expiry of the permit.
Maintenance of the tower includes applying 50 to 60 tons of paint every 7 years to protect it from rust. And in order to maintain a uniform appearance to an observer on the ground, 3 separate colors of paint are used on the tower, with the darkest on the bottom and the lightest at the top. And as one of the most iconic images in the world, the Eiffel Tower has been the inspiration for the creation of over 30 duplicates and similar towers around the world.
Anyhow, I was so looking forward to going up the Eiffel Tower. It’s a good thing that our hotel is a mere 10-minute walk to the Eiffel Tower. And it was getting dark when we got there, so seeing it in all its glory for the first time was unbelievable. I had to pinch myself that I was indeed in Paris. So, armed with my camera and my enthusiasm, Marilyn, Grace and I bought our tickets and made our way into the edifice. The tower has three levels. Tickets can be purchased to ascend, by stairs or lift, to the first and second levels. The walk to the first level is over 300 steps, as is the walk from the first to the second level. The third and highest level is accessible only by elevator. Both the first and second levels feature restaurants.
On the ground floor, there is not much to see except the elevator entrances, along with souvenir shops. One thing I would recommend though is the original elevator hydraulics which is still in place dating back to the time of Eiffel in the 19th century. The first floor, on the other hand, features a circular gallery that gives visitors an overview of the tower's history and design, as well as an introduction to some of Paris' most famous sights and monuments. There is a restaurant on this floor called “Altitude 95” which is shaped in the style of an airship.
The second floor offers noteworthy panoramas of the city, as well as more insight into the tower's history and construction. This floor is much smaller than the first because obviously the tower is getting smaller in width. The sights are something to behold! On this floor is the world-renowned La Jules Verne Restaurant which gives exquisite views of Paris in lavish surroundings. The top floor, on the other hand, is not for the faint hearted. Unfortunately, as much as I wanted to go up, I was unable to do so for one reason or another. Nevertheless, if you are in Paris, make sure you visit this “little treasure” and become part of its history because, surely, you won’t be disappointed.
Since I enjoyed the visit immensely, I really wish I could return to Paris one day to get another chance to ascend the Eiffel Tower once again, hopefully to have lunch or dinner at the restaurant, or just lie on the grass at the Champs de Mars at night with a bottle of Merlot and gaze at the steel structure while watching the spectacular light display. As it was, I felt it was a hurried visit and my taking pictures here and there did not help in satiating my desire to take everything all in.
Anyhow, since we really wanted to look at Eiffel’s memorabilia (which we were unable to find), we got separated from the group. Unable to find them at the appointed place, we decided to head back to the hotel, and not finding them at the hotel either, I went back to the Eiffel Tower with another member of the group (Frank) to reconnect with them. It’s a good thing our hotel is a mere 10-minute walk to the Eiffel Tower. So by the time my head hit the pillow, it was an hour past midnight. Just imagine me having no sleep since 3am the day before --- as to where I got my energy from still makes me wonder up to this day.
To Be Continued....
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